There are some journeys that start long before the first footfall. They begin as a stirring within, a quiet summons beneath the noise of ordinary life, an invitation to step beyond routine into something older, deeper that connects us to source.
St Declan’s Way offers perspective in a world that moves at pace. Stepping out on this ancient pilgrim path felt different. What we were part of on this Irish Camino would ripple out beyond our time and place to give hope to children and mothers far beyond these shores. In finding peace, we give peace. The way teaches us to be kind.
Winding from the Rock of Cashel in County Tipperary to the ancient shoreline of Ardmore in County Waterford, this venerable pilgrim route carries more than the memory of 75 miles; it carries prayer, story, longing and the accumulated footsteps of those who have gone before. In the hands of Celtic Ways Ireland, this ancient way becomes not simply a walk, but a Celtic Experience in the truest sense of the word: one that allows the land to speak, the soul to breathe and the pilgrim to soak in the story and the beauty of the places along the way.
Last week, we teamed up with The Missionaries of the Sacred Heart (MSC) to lead a group along highlights of St Declan’s Way in solidarity with the mothers and children in South Sudan. All funds raised would go directly to the Mary Ward Primary Health Care Centre in the rural village of Maker Kuei, South Sudan, where a current outreach programme run by the Loreto Sisters is supporting the vital health and nutritional needs of twin children from vulnerable households in the local community. We were walking with added impetus… with real purpose.
The Health Care Centre has long served as a lifeline for local families who have extremely limited access to healthcare, and this programme addresses the specific needs of twin babies at high risk of malnutrition and disease. The babies receive dedicated medical and nutritional care, while their families and caregivers are educated and empowered to be able to continue to care for themselves and their children beyond the boundaries of the programme. Each mother who walks through its doors finds not just treatment for her child, but also knowledge, confidence, and a network of care that endures beyond the programme. It’s humbling to be part of such a project. We all felt it!
What matters most here is not only antiquity, but presence
Our bespoke tour of the Rock of Cashel with renowned pilgrim travel writer John G. O’ Dwyer set the tone for all that was to follow over the coming days. John has been a mentor, a friend, a guide to us on our Celtic Ways journey from the time we started out almost 10 years ago. He has met with all 32 of our groups that left from Cashel. The experience of walking through this hallowed space with him drew us unknowingly into our shared Celtic past. This citadel of stone echoes to the strains of a bygone time that has shaped the Ireland of today.
What matters most here is not only antiquity, but presence. As we listened to stories from an ancient time, the sun lowered momentarily as if to pay homage to the many believers, kings, saints and paupers who lived and died within this sacred vault. We could hear the faint cry of the 1,000 locals who perished here in Cromwellian times. Stories untold lie buried in their vaulted tomb. The sun rose to beckon us on our way. Yet, we lingered for a while, as if to slowly let go of the spirit of those we left behind. Moments in time coalesce to bring us closer to those whose trail we follow.
Mystical Land
The rivers we pass carry us deeper into the mystical lands of Ireland and the stories they hold. Along the Suir, we stopped to take in a private tour of Cahir Castle and the Swiss Cottage and later surveyed King John’s Castle and the monastic ruins of St Finnian from a unique vantage point overlooking Ardfinnan. Along the Blackwater, we dipped our toes in stories of Saint Carthage and all that followed beneath the dim enchantment of Lismore Castle. We could sense the timeless in the Now as swallows swooped low by the river’s side as if to remind us that we had now entered their sacred space. Peace of this kind is rare and beautiful.
A journey back in time of over 1,500 years
Over the past few months, we worked closely with Mary Morrish, MSC Head of Fundraising, to craft a Celtic Pilgrim Experience in Ireland that would live up to if not exceed their previous Camino experiences around the world. St Declan’s Way is a journey back in time of over 1,500 years. Declan was in Ardmore nearly 20 years before St Patrick arrived in Ireland and the path we take traces his steps as he returned to the Deise after meeting Patrick at The Rock of Cashel in 431AD. Pilgrims on Camino in Spain re-trace the steps of the hermit Palaya who went in search of the resting place of St James in the 9th Century and was guided by celestial light to his grave in the town of Padron some 400 years after Declan. Ireland’s pilgrim past has pedigree. It has left a deep and indelible imprint in the land.
Our experience of walking this ancient pathway with the Missionaries of the Sacred Heart is one we will remember for years to come. We wanted to honour the wisdom of pilgrimage itself; to press pause on occasion and allow the pulse to settle. Here, beyond the noise and din of a busy world, we could see the mist rising off a river at first light, the changing script of cloud shadow across the Knockmealdowns, the quiet dignity of old abbey stones, the sudden companionship of birdsong in a hedgerow, the soft turning of conversation among fellow travellers. What began as a walk across a landscape became, gently, a journey into a deeper space within. We experienced Mass together led by Spiritual Director Fr Tony Horgan MSC in the ruins of ancient abbeys and cathedrals. Everything landed as it should. We were not alone.
What people often remember most vividly are the ‘unscripted moments’ that could not be planned; chance encounters along the way, unhurried conversations, quiet times of reflection shaped by the landscape itself. The destination was not a place but a cause.
Our MSC pilgrims have helped to raise funds to support the Healthy Start facility for vulnerable baby twins in Maker Kuei, covering 50 sets of twins. This will fund the cost of medicines, nutritional supplements and powdered milk to help malnourished mothers where they cannot produce enough breastmilk to feed both babies. Each step along the way has made a difference.
Perhaps that is why St Declan’s Way lingers so long in the heart after the journey ends. Something about it stays with you: the contours of the land, the genuine warmth of our guides and their passion for their place, the monastic hush, the old stories rising through stone and field, the companions we have made along the way. This was our time to leave our footprints in the land and make a difference to the lives of people in a faraway place. As we felt the sand beneath our feet and sea breeze on our face arriving into Ardmore, it felt good to be alive. The clouds parted and the sun shone in ways we had not noticed before.
Phil and Elaine would like to thank Mary Morrish, Fr Tony Horgan and all the team at MSC Ireland for all their help in making this special Celtic Pilgrim Experience along St Declan’s Way so memorable.
Thanks also to John Donovan at Glencomeragh House for the warmth of his welcome and the amazing hospitality of the team at Glencomeragh. And special thanks to all the members of our Peace Choir who travelled to sing for the group in Glencomeragh. It was a week to remember.
For more details on our Celtic Ways Pilgrim Experiences and Bespoke Private Tours in Ireland, reach out to Phil and Elaine at info@celticwaysireland.com