This October we reached a milestone of sorts… our 25th group arrived safely onto the beach in Ardmore after walking St Declan’s Way with us. We have very much taken the circuitous route to arrive at where we are now. When we first led groups along this ancient pilgrim path, we walked all 115 kilometres from Cashel to Ardmore. Now, we’ve crafted a unique Celtic Pilgrim Experience that blends shorter walks along iconic stretches of St Declan’s Way with a little adventure and more time to soak in the story and the beauty of the places we pass along the way. We have listened to our visitors and tailored our Celtic experience to reflect what they are looking for from this unique ‘time-out’ in Ireland.

Above all, we have learned since we started out along St Declan’s Way that it pays not to rush the journey. It’s amazing what you notice when the pulse slows down… swallows in telepathic flight welcoming you to their hallowed space beneath the enchanting surrounds of the Rock of Cashel; a crane, statuesque in furtive disguise stalking its prey beneath the water’s veil as the River Suir rolls by; shared stories from a bygone time that connect us to an Ireland that has shaped us all. Nature has a mesmeric way of reminding us that we are part of something far greater than ourselves. Stillness is our stepping stone to the wonder of it all. Our Celtic Pilgrim Experience along St. Declan’s Way gives us space to breathe, to step back a little from the world for a while and connect to source again. We attune to a new frequency. We find perspective… even peace.

Our visitors love Mount Melleray Abbey. The Guesthouse is simple and unadorned with en suite rooms, a warm and inviting communal kitchen area and a welcoming Guest Master, Br Seamus, who looks after us from the time we arrive to the time we leave. This Cistercian Abbey at the foot of the Knockmealdown Mountains in Co Waterford reverberates to a timeless beat that dates back almost 200 years. The monks go about their daily routine from the moment the bells call them to prayer at 4.15am. Once almost 150 monks lived here, now just 10. Yet, you sense an energy in the calm, a resolute belief amidst the changing vagaries of an uncertain world. We lead a short Taizé Vigil for Peace in the side chapel on one of the evenings with some of the members of our Peace Choir. In times past, a monastery became a place of refuge for pilgrims on their journey. Some traditions should never be lost to modernity!

Our Celtic Pilgrim Experience along St Declan’s Way is all about balance. Yes, Mount Melleray Abbey is the perfect base to return to in the evenings but it’s also great to sample a little of the hospitality in adjoining towns on occasion. Only last week, we took an unexpected detour into Cappoquin to sample a pint of Guinness, or two, in ‘Cliffe’s Bar’. We got chatting with the proprietor only to discover that many moons ago he queued for the school bus with one of our group whom he was now meeting for the first time since. Not quite sure anymore if these random occurrences happen by chance. We ended up enjoying possibly the nicest fish and chips we ever had in Alice’s ‘Cornerstone Chipper’ close by. The whole evening took on a life of its own. Maybe not quite the rigors of pilgrimage in days of old but there was something about the fun we had and the stories we shared that felt so good.

Our Gala Dinner in the ‘Moorings Bar & Restaurant’ in Dungarvan on the final evening is always a real highlight. The beautiful food, the few drinks, the chats, the presentation of Certificates… it’s just a great night against the stunning backdrop of the harbour in Dungarvan. Last May, we met a young couple from the States by St Declan’s Well who had just got married and we invited them to join us in what became their wedding celebration. We had a monk with us from the Abbey who blessed them, an Irish Tenor among our team of guides who sang for them, and a beautifully exuberant wedding party who could not quite believe what was happening around them. It’s the unscripted moments that you couldn’t possibly plan for that live long in the memory.

Over the past few weeks, we’ve added a unique ingredient to Our Celtic Pilgrim Experience along St Declan’s Way; a little adventure! Under the guidance of local kayaking expert Denis Murray, we give our feet a rest and enjoy a leisurely voyage down the River Blackwater from Lismore to Cappoquin. It’s amazing to think that it was here along this very river that pilgrims over the centuries made their way to Youghal Harbour before embarking on their voyage to Galicia to walk the Camino de Santiago. The rhythm of this day is very different to all that has gone before. Setting out from the stunning backdrop of Lismore Castle, we move to the river’s flow. There’s a peace here that is simply indescribable. 

There is something uniquely enchanting about Lismore that has to be experienced to be believed. We have learned not to rush our time here. Stay, soak in its story, its magic, its timeless beauty. After lunch, our local guide Alice takes us along a breathtaking riverbank walk that leads us back through the woods into the old monastic citadel of St Carthage. Her passion for the place she calls ‘home’ connects us to the creative energy of the people who have shaped this town though the ages. Monks, visionaries, saints, dukes and rebels all left their imprint in the land here. Their distant murmurings can still be heard by the water’s edge. No visit to the town would be complete without a visit to Lismore Castle and Gardens. The Castle retains its mystique, its mesmeric charm; its lofty walls privy to stories that remain untold. The river flows serenely below as if knowingly bowing to the many who have walked its banks before. After our bespoke garden tour, the Butler of the Castle calls out to see us and regales us with stories from people who have stayed in the castle over years. Denis is one of a kind, exuding an old world decency that lingers long after our visit is over.

St Declan’s Way is more than a pilgrim path that dates back over 1,500 years. It is an experience that invites us deeper into the soul of Celtic Ireland. It pays to come off the well-worn and often crowded tourist circuit and come face to face with our shared Celtic past. More and more visitors want something more immersive that connects to the real Ireland. St Declan’s Way leaves you wanting more. Whether self-guided or with us, take that first step. You’ll be glad you did!

I’m going to finish this week with a kind review from a recent visitor who joined us for our inaugural ‘Celtic Pilgrim Experience along St Declan’s Way’. Mike is a Professor of Literature from the States and is currently putting the finishing touches to his book on pilgrim trails in Italy, Spain and Ireland. We had a great time with him and his family. He has inspired us on our way too more than he even knows. Thanks Mike!

I’ve traveled all over the world, and the Celtic Pilgrim Experience along St Declan’s Way has been one of the most memorable experiences of my life. And I compare this Declan’s Way Walk with encounters with Fidel Castro in Havana, meeting Desmond Tutu in South Africa, staying with the Masai in Kenya, etc. Phil and Elaine are perfect tour leaders — sensitive, knowledgeable, organized, and funny. The people we shared the path with will be my friends for life. The guides were pitch perfect. Mount Melleray Monastery was a unique place to stay. We walked, we talked, we kayaked, we sang, we shared stories. I would recommend this trip for anyone wanting an adventure unlike any I’ve ever had.

Mike Patrick Pearson

Dr. Phil Brennan and Elaine have recently re-modelled their Celtic Ways Ireland website to reflect their new tour offerings in South East Ireland and Wales that will be rolled out from Spring 2025. To find out more, check out www.celticwaysireland.com or email Phil and Elaine directly on info@celticwaysireland.com