This 115km walkway between Cashel in Co Tipperary and  Ardmore in Co Waterford is ‘a journey in time over 1,500  years’ 

John G O’Dwyer 

Sun Jul 07 2024 

Finding them, presents little difficulty. With sturdy walking shoes, rain jackets, rucksacks, walking poles and an air of anticipation, they stand out among the casually outfitted visitors to the Rock of Cashel. From California they have come, but they will not be kissing the Blarney Stone, downing pints in the Guinness Storehouse or sampling jarvey rides by Killarney’s lakes.

In many ways they are pioneers, for they will be sampling one of the newest offerings in Irish tourism that it is hoped will eventually rival the Spanish Camino with a walking experience based around slow-tourism and mindfulness. Walking St Declan’s Way from Cashel in Co Tipperary to Ardmore, Co Waterford is their objective for the coming week. This mystical trail was created when St Declan (regarded by some as Ireland’s first Christian missionary), journeyed from Waterford in the fifth century to meet St Patrick at Cashel. Here the two saintly men divided the newly Christianising Ireland between them.

In the following centuries, pilgrims followed the path footed by Declan on his return from Cashel when visiting the saint’s resting place on the Waterford coast, and a pilgrim path was created. The modernisation of Irish society meant the route fell into disuse in the 20th century and was only officially reopened in 2021 as a fully waymarked pilgrim route.

Immediately I am welcomed by Phil Brennan and his wife, Elaine, of the tour company Celtic Ways Ireland. Suitably equipped with a PhD in spirituality, Phil is organising the itinerary, but it will be far from the standard Dublin/Wild Atlantic Way itinerary. Instead, the group will walk each day (rain or shine) while spending three overnights in Cahir, Co Tipperary, and three nights in Mount Melleray Abbey on the slopes of the Knockmealdown Mountains.

Not exactly a five-star tour, then? “No, but that isn’t what our clients are seeking. St Declan’s Way is more than just a walk of 115km; it’s a journey in time over 1,500 years. In Celtic Ways Ireland, we believe our clients are looking for something different when they holiday in Ireland, not a whistle-stop tour of the main attractions. Our interest lies in slow- tempo trails that allow people to experience the beauty and story of the places they pass. For us, it’s not just the destination that matters – it’s the steps between,” says Phil.

But you are following in the footsteps of a Christian saint, so is this tour just for religious people? “No, it is not a religion-based journey; our clients are drawn from all belief systems and none. For everyone, life is a search for meaning beyond material boundaries and pilgrim walking takes us past these boundaries. It slows the pulse of life, and brings believers and non-believers into a reflective place. This allows them to connect with something deeper in themselves and in the world around.”

So, will people flock to Ireland for a deeper experience in the way they have done on the Spanish Camino? Talking to the group members, it is clear they are not seeking a standard Irish holiday. The most common reason for choosing an Irish pilgrim walk is, as Phil has said, a quest for a deeper experience not provided by a standard holiday. Thomas Lenz, an attorney, is a newbie to Ireland but was initially attracted by this country’s reputation for friendliness and ancient mysticism. He tells me he is hoping that the walk “will provide an experience that goes outside the standard tourist bubble and allows me to connect more with myself”.

Teri Mitchell hails from Pasadena. Tired of sun and beach holidays, she walked the French Camino in 2019 and found it deeply satisfying. “With pilgrim walking, you meet the local people in a way you don’t on a tour. I didn’t know Ireland had pilgrim paths, but when I was told about the opportunity to walk St Declan’s Way, it seemed the perfect way to explore the country. So I jumped at it.”

While a religious motivation for coming to Ireland is not mentioned, there is a desire among some for a spiritual experience. Judy Melgoza Marx has already walked the Spanish Camino. She tells me that, for her, St Declan’s Way isn’t so much about the destination as the journey. “I’m looking forward to sharing the route with my fellow walkers, and having an opportunity for reflection and spiritual growth.”

Jan Clifford was born in Chicago, but has Kerry roots. Why did she travel so far for a pilgrim walk? “I have holidayed in Ireland on three occasions and enjoyed it, but I am seeking something different this time. I’m tired of looking at the countryside through the window of a coach. This time I hope to follow a richer, slower path and connect with the people and landscape around me. I am looking for a physical challenge, but also a spiritual journey.”

After a brief tour of the Rock and an explanation of how Declan came to meet Patrick, the group departs but not towards the coach park. Instead, they start footing the 21km penitential trail leading to Cahir.

Five days later, having completed their pilgrim walk, everyone comes together to celebrate in the Mooring Bistro-Bar in Dungarvan, Co Waterford. When I arrive, spirits are high after the only fully dry week of the Irish spring.

By its nature, pilgrim walking creates unscripted moments, and St Declan’s Way is no exception. Phil Brennan tells me that, while walking the cliffs near Ardmore, they chanced on an American couple celebrating their marriage outdoors. “We immediately became the wedding party for the ceremony and the couple are joining us to celebrate the occasion.”

Soon after, the newly-weds, Brian and Ashi, arrive and are then serenaded by Declan Kelly of the Irish Tenors group, who has come on-board for the last couple of days of walking.

Eventually, the celebrations quieten down and I have a chance to discover how people experienced their long and demanding walk.

Certainly, a deeper immersion in Irish culture has been facilitated by the slow pace. Eleonore Hess is originally from Minneapolis, but lives in California. She has not been disappointed. “I found it an immersive experience and really enjoyed the stories and music I heard along the way. The highlights of my week were staying amid the peace of Mount Melleray Abbey and walking barefoot along the beach to end my pilgrim walk.”

And what of a spiritual experience? Fran McCreary has already walked two sections of the Camino while seeking to get in touch with her spiritual side. She did not complete St. Declan’s Way to seek spirituality but “found it in abundance. All the music, prayers and reflections were overwhelming and soul-satisfying.”

When I spoke to Lenz in Cashel, he had been hoping for an experience outside the tourism bubble. He now tells me he has not been disappointed. “We experienced so many friendly faces and pleasant surprises every day. Whether it was encountering a castle or church, a flock of sheep in a field, the quiet of a monastery, crossing a mountain range, or the smile of a new friend, there was so much to enjoy. This Ireland experience will always stay with me.”

St Declan’s Way: A heavenly path 

Linking Cashel, Co Tipperary, with Ardmore, Co Waterford, this 115km walking route incorporates several medieval routes such as the Rian Bó Phádraig, Bóthar na Naomh, Cosán na Naomh and St Declan’s Road. Its reopening means Ireland now has an ancient pilgrim trail comparable, in length and distance, with what most pilgrims undertake when visiting the Spanish Camino.

Speedy hikers can complete St Declan’s Way in five days. For a rewarding experience, however, with time to absorb the variety of landscapes and many antiquities on the route, it is probably better to plan for a six-day outing. This also allows the considerable bonus of a memorable overnight stay at Mount Melleray Abbey.

For those intending to walk St Declan’s Way over six days, the route conveniently breaks into three stages north of Mount Melleray Abbey and three stages to the south. These are fully waymarked with the blue St Declan’s Way arrows and the Slí Dheaglain signposts at important junctions.

Those wishing to have evidence of completing the entire pilgrim path can obtain a St. Declan’s Way passport free of charge and stamp it at the designated points on the route.

Further information, stdeclansway.ie